The St. John Genealogy Project

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Highlight (Uchelolau), Glamorgan, Wales

Highlight (Uchelolau), Glamorgan, Wales

16 Sherbourne Cl, Barry CF62 8AQ, United Kingdom

Gate sign

Gate sign

The gate sign reflects the Welsh word for Highlight: Uchelolau

Manor of Highlight

Manor of Highlight

The current residents of Highlight, granted Orson St. John and his family access to the property and gave them a fun tour in 2014.

Entrance sign

Entrance sign

As you reach the entrance to the modern Manor of Highlight you are greated with a name plate.

Uchelolau or Highlight

Manor of Highlight

"HIGHLIGHT, an extra-parochial district in the hundred of DINAS - POWIS, county of GLAMORGAN, SOUTH WALES, 7 miles (S. W.) from Cardiff. The population is returned with that of the adjacent parish of Merthyr-Dovan. It comprises an extent of about four hundred acres, forming two farms, the occupants of which have a pew in the church of Merthyr-Dovan, where they attend divine service." ( A Topographical Dictionary of Wales by Samuel Lewis 1833)

"Church of St. Dyfan and St. Teilo, Merthyr Dyfan." Photograph, from Glamorgan History and Archaeology Blog, July 2016. https://glamorganhistoryandarchaeology.blogspot.com/2016/07/the-medieval-village-of-merthyr-dyfan.html.


Excerpt from David, Colin M. A Short History of the Parish of Saint Dyfan and Saint Teilo (Merthyr Dyfan) Barry, Glamorgan, 1968. pg 10-12

Nichols Carlisle in "A Topographical Dictionary of the Dominions of Wales" 1811 has this to say:

"Merthyr Dayfan, In the Cwmwd of Is Caeth, Catref of Brenhinol (Now called the hundred of Dinas Powys), County of Glamorgan, South Wales: a discharged Rectory, valued in the King's Books at 4 pounds, 17 shillings and 3 and one-half pence. Patron Robert Jenner, Esq. The resident population of the Parish in 1801 was  105 pounds, 4 shillings, and 5 and three-fourths pence. It is seven miles south-west of Cardiff. This parish contains about 1100 acres (including some profitable woodlands) of enclosed and cultivated land. The inhabitants of the extra-parochial district of Highlight attend divine services at the Chruch. According to the diocesan report in 1809 the yearly value of the benefice, arising from Tythes, and Rent of Glebe, was 64 pounds, 16 shillings and 8 pence."

"Highlight is extra-parochial. The resident population of this district in 1801 is 12. It contains 400 acres of land. There are only two farm houses; the inhabitants thereof have a Pew in the Church of Merthyr Dyfan, where they attend divine services. In 1803, it had no poor."

Many readers will not perhaps know where the remains of the church are; turn off Port Road, down Highlight Lane, through (with permission) the farmyard and follow the lane for about five hundred yards. In a field, on the left you will see the remains of the church. The road is extremely muddy and wellington boots are essential.

It would seem that this was originally part of the large parish of Merthyr Dyfan, then an extra-parochial "Private" chapel but has in latter years been considered as part of the parish of Wenvoe, in which civil parish it undoubtedly lies.

XII. The Parish of Highlight was once a parochial chapelry if not a parish: it is still extra-parochial for ecclesiastical purposes, although included in the civil parish of Wenvoe. It was originally called by its Welsh name "Ucheloleu." The parish was owned by the St. Johns' cadets of the Fonmon family. If this chapelry is meant by an entry in A.D. 1291, David de Sumeri (Somery) was then its lord, a fact which points to its being part of Dinas Powis (Powys) Lordship, then held by the Sumeri (Somery) family.

The church was valued at 2 marks in A.D. 1254. It was not mentioned in the list of A.D. 1291, 1535, and 1563: but in A.D. 1603 we have this entry, "Ucheloly is a personage the tithes whereof have been received for the space of 30 years by Christopher St. John, gent., the patron thereof, who will not allow any wages at all to any curate, nor obey any sequestration: so the parish hath been without service these 30 years and more, and the church almost fallen down. It is worth annually 20 marks.


Note: The rent of glebe refers to the income or rent that a parish priest or church received from the glebe land. Glebe land was land owned by the church or a parish, traditionally used to support the clergy. It was often farmed, and the rent or produce from this land would contribute to the clergy's living expenses. The term "glebe" itself typically refers to land that was specifically set aside for the benefit of the church and its clergy. The rent of glebe could be either in the form of money or goods, depending on the agreement or the time period. Historically, this system was common in medieval and early modern England, as well as other parts of Europe.


A Deserted Village

This deserted Medieval village is being extensively excavated and examined by Howard J. Thomas and Gerald Davies on behalf of the Barry and Vale Archaeological Group who began their researches in 1946. The remains of the church are now clearly visible, thanks to their efforts. It was a simple church with nave, chancel and South Porch measuring overal some 45 by 20 feet and probably built about 1200-1250 A.D. with the pourch added some century later. the description of the priest's burial is appended for interest, and for it I am indebted to Mr. Thomas.

In addition to the church the group has uncovered the remains of a priest's house, a possible mill, an old road, and the remains of several other buildings including those of an unrecorded 15th century manor house. In fact it is a complete Medieval village site which, for some unknown reason, was abandoned by the inhabitants.

There are no records of the consecration of the church nor any clues as to its name. Oddly enough even its later history is obscure. Because the village is now claimed as part of the civil and ecclesiastical parish of Wenvoe; yet there is no trace of its having been haded over in the diocesan registers from the parish to Wenvoe, with which it has little physical connection, the main road being wholly in the Parish of Merthyr Dyfan.

A deserted village


Priest's Burial at Highlight

By Howard J. Thomas

The burial of a priest was located in the northern half of the nave, 6 ft. 9 in. west of the east wall, and 3 ft. 9 in. south of the north wall.

The skeleton was in a very poor state of  preservation, the rib cge, vertibrae, and skull (with the exception of the long bones) being crushed almost flat by the pressure of the heavy clay soil. The body was covered by a dark purplish stain containing blackened fragments of wood, measuring 5 ft. 6 in. long by 1 ft. 6 in. wide. This represented the collapsed coffin lid and possibly the walls. The bottom of the coffin was also traced suggesting a debth of about 1 ft. The skeleton represented a small individual about 4 ft. 7 in. tall. The body had been carefully positioned, being fully extended with the forearms across the chest, the hands placed together in an attitude of prayer, and the left foot crossed over the right. On the pelvis were the decayed and flattened remains of a lead chalice and paten, the patina on the underside of which bore the impressions of linen cloth. Fragments of wood were found on top of the paten, owing its preservation to its contact with the patina. The grain of wood could clerly be distinguished showing that it ran in a longitudinal direction. Between the legs of the skeleton was an iron buckle, also bearing traces of linen. At the bottom of the coffin, near the feet of the skeleton was a small pewter chalice.

In the clay immediately above the area of the coffin was a corresponding rectangular area of flattish stones, including one or two Pennant sandstone roofing tiles. The depth from the surface of the floor to the top of the coffin was 1 ft. 4 in.

The Church at Highlight, whose dedication remains unknown, was closed down about 1570 by the Lord of the Manor, Christopher St. John (1547-1616), who seized the tithes and refused to appoint a parish priest. Since then the inhabitants have had the right to attend Merthyr Dyfan Church.

The chalices and paten were probably made specially for funeral purposes from base metal and are in very poor condition, resembling lumps of squashed lead. At the moment they are housed iwth the group's collection at 9 Eton Street, Barry.

Excavation notes


The Manor of Highlight

112. Highlight (Uchel-ole), N.W. of Barry, was the seat of a branch of the St. John family of Fonmon Castle (No. 97) from the end of the 14th century to 1728, William St. John in 1595 serving as deputy sheriff. Incorporated in the existing farm buildings are traces of possibly a late medieval house of H-shaped plan that may have replaced an adjacent moated site; fragments of late medieval and 17th century dressed stone exist loose or reset in later work.

Manor house


The Deserted Medieval Village of Highlight (Uchelolau) Glamorgan

By Howard J. Thomas M.A., F.S.A.

The deserted medieval village of Highlight (Uchelolau) was partially excavated by the Barry and Vale Archaeological Group between 1964 and 1969. The settlement was founded on marginal land following the establishment of a small sub-manor in the 12th century. By the late 13th century it had evolved into a small linear village possessing a parish church and manor house. The village with the exception of the manor house was completely depopulated before the middle of the 16th century.

HISTORY

The parish of Highlight contained an area of about 405 acres. Its boundaries are co-terminous with the manor of the same name except on the northern side where the manor extends into the parish of Wenvoe to include Lidmore Mill and an additional 13 acres. The boundaries follow streams, but on the south where no natural features exist the parish is delimited by a substantial hedge line laid out in two straight alignments. The overall plan of the parish indicates that it was carved out of the large parish of Merthyr Dyfan. This feature suggests that Highlight was created some time after the primary Norman settlement of the Vale of Glamorgan, probably as a result of expansion onto unoccupied and uncultivated marginal land in the second half of the 12th century.

Original Placename

The original place name which is attested from the middle of the 13th century was the Welsh Uchelolau, the first element of which is 'Uchel' = 'high', the second 'olau' = 'tracks', the nearest equivalent when translated into English being 'Ridgeway'. This appeared in medieval documents in many corrupt forms, for example 'Yoch Wanwol' in c. 1348. From the first half of the 17th century onwards, the English name was generally used, this in itself being a minstranslation into 'Highlight' by confusion of the second element with the Welsh word 'golau' = 'light'. The implication, however, is that the settlement took its name from a pre-existing trackway.

The Sub-manor of Highlight

The sub-manor of Highlight was held under the lords of Dinas Powys by the service of half a knight's fee, for which 3s 4d wardsilver was contributed annually. Dinas Powys itself was held from the 12th century by the important family of De Someri, lords of Dudley who in turn held it of the lords of Glamorgan. No early record survives as to whom Highlight was sub-enfeoffed, though a David de Someri, doubtless a junior member of the family is named as its lord in 1291. In 1321-22, the main line of the de Someri family became extinct in the male line and the lordship of Dinas Powys was divided into moieties, one of which was in the possession of the Sutton family, the other in the hands of the lord of Glamorgan. In consequence of the partition separate payments of 1s 8d. wardsilver were paid by the tenants in respect of Highlight to the two overlords, an arrangement which continued from the 14th to the late 18th century, except for a short period following 1617, when the moieties were re-united under Sir William Herbert.

Despencer's Survey

In Despencer's Survey of the Shire Fee of Glamorgan compiled in 1320 for taxation purposes, Highlight manor was reported as containing two ploughlands. The assessments in this survey seem to have been made in respect of the Gwentian acres (3,240 square yards to the acre), in which case Highlight would have contained 240 Gwentian or 160 Statute acres, the arable proportion representing only about 38 per cent. This clearly reflects the local ground conditions of impeded clay subsoil. Rough estimates based on this survey also indicate that in the adjacent parishes to the S.W. such as Barry, Penmark, and Porthkerry, located on freely drained clay loam on limestone, between 50 and 60 per cent of the land was arable.

John St. John possesses Highlight

At the close of the 14th century Highlight came into the possession of Sir John St. John (d.1424) lord of Fonmon near Barry. He granted the manor to his second son Alexander whose descendants resided at Highlight for eight generations.

Beauchamp's 1429 Survey

In Beauchamp's Survey of the lordship of Glamorgan 1429, Alexander St. John is returned as holding the fee of Uchelolau.

Death of Alexander St. John

Before his death he had made provision through trustees for the settlement of Highlight upon his son William and Katherine                                                                his wife and their heirs.

1531 Vistation by William Fellows

Oliver St. John, grandson of Alexander was present at William Fellow's heraldic Visitation of South Wales, held at Cardiff on 24 August 1531. Here he submitted his family pedigree, and exhibited a surcoat embroidered with a coat of arms (Argent, a bend gules and on a chief gules two mullets or, pierced vert.), which had been worn by his ancestor Sir John St. John at the battle of Agincourt.

1546 Survey of Knight's Fees

A survey of knights' fees in the county of Glamorgan compiled in 1546 names William St. John (great-grandson of Alexander) as holding the manor of Highlight alias Uchelolau, under the lordship of Dinas Powys.

1538-44 Chancery Proceeding

The manor also figures in a Chancery Proceeding of c. 1538-44 brought by Robert Stradling grandson of Alexander St. John against William St. John, wherein the property is described as a 'Manor place or mansion hows' called Yughaloley, with a mill and 240 acres attached, doubtless the demesne lands.

1562 Death of William St. John

At William's death in 1562, the manor was assessed as worth 24 pounds per annum clear of all reprises and that Christopher St. John aged 17 was declared his son and heir.

1612 fine

In 1612 a fine was levied at the Great Sessions on Highlight which related to the marriage settlement of Sir William St. John (d.1638) son of Christopher St. John, gent.(b.1547 d.1616) of Highlight, with Eleanor (d.1641) daughter of Sir John St. John, knt, of Lydiard Tregoz, Wilts. The Highlight property is stated as consisting of 2 messuages, 3 cottages, 2 tofts, one water corn mill, 2 gardens, 2 orchards, 150 acres of arable land, 150 acres of meadow, 100 acres of pasture, and 20 acres of wood (420 acres in all). This William had been elevated to knighthood in 1607 for services rendered to the Crown in Ireland.

1653 marriage settlement

The marriage settlement of William St John (d.1669), nephew of the aforementioned Sir William, and Katherine (d.1672) daughter of Edward Lewis of Wenvoe dated 1653, gives some brief particulars about Highlight; namely that the manor then consisted of 4 messuages, one pigeon house, a water grist mill, 4 gardens, 4 orchards, 100 acres of arable land, 50 acres of meadow, 50 acres of pasture, 50 acres of wood, 100 acres of furse and heath, also a tenemeet called Brynhill containing 50 acres which was let to tenants (total 400 acres).

1727 Line at Highlight extinct

The male line of the St. Johns ended with Oliver (b.1658 d.1728) son of William, who married Francis daughter of Edward Kemys of Kemys, Monmouthsire. Upon his death the estates passed to his wife's nieces, Francis and Mary Kemys, children of William Kemys. Both died single, Francis of 1735, Mary in 1753. After the death of the latter, the properties passed into the possession of their distant kinsman Sir Charles Kemys-tynte of Cefn Mably whose descendents retained Highlight until it was sold to the late Cyril Lakin 1920.

Parish History

The parish church is first mentioned in the Norwich Taxation of 1254 in which 'Ecclesia de Hukheloleu' was valued at 2 marks (1lb. 6s. 8d), but was unable to pay the tax levied at one tenth. In the taxation of Pope Nicholas IV 1291 the church was valued at 20s. It is also mentioned in a list of Synodals of c. 1348 as contributing 15d., and in a Clerical Subsidy roll of 1433 is returned as worth 15s. These figures indicate that Highlight was among the poorest livings in the diocese, which reflects the poverty of the community. The Register of Archbishop John Peckham records on 5 July 1291, the institution of Richard de Torvesmere, chaplain, to the church of Uchelolau, on the presentation of David de Someri, lord of Uchelolau. In 1534 another incumbent, 'Sir' Robert Hewys (? Hughes), signed the Oath of Allegiance to Henry V111, as rector of Uchelolau. The church was still used for burials in 1559 when William St. John, lord of Highlight, in his will instructed 'my bodye to be buryed in the Churche of Ychellolye. But the following entry from Bishop Godwin's return of 1603 would suggest that the church was abandoned about 1570: - 'Ucheloly is a personage the tithes whereof have bene received for the space of xxx. Years by Christopher St. John gent' the patron thereof, who will not alow any wages at all to any curate, nor obey any sequestracion. So the parish hath bene without service these 30 yeares and more, and the church almost fallen down, val' per annum xx. markes.' The church was still mentioned long after it became defunct in a fine of 1622 which specified that the manorial rights included 'the advowson of the church of High light alias Yghell Oley.'. The spiritual needs of the few inhabitants of Highlight was thereafter provided by the priviage of special pew in the neighbouring church of Merthyr Dyfan. Sufficient remained of the church ruins in 1865 to be described by the antiquarian G.T. Clark :- 'The remains of a small chapel, about 45ft by 12ft inside. The east gable and part of the south wall are standing. There is no east window.' The parish was certainly almost completely depopulated before the middle of the 16th century, as Highlight is omitted from the first 'three lay subsidies for Wales of 1543-45. In the lay subsidy of 1546 William St. John, lord of Highlight first appears as the sole tax payer for the parish, assessed in respect of lands worth 20 pounds. The returns for 1593 and 1606 show an increase of an additional householder in Highlight, the persons assessed being Christopher St. John for land worth 40s. and Lison Portrey for goods valued at 3 pounds; in 1623-4 these were the widow of Christopher St John and Lison Portrey. The lay subsidy returns, together with entries in the Glamorgan Plea Rolls are consistent in showing that there were only two houses in the parish in the second half of the 16th century. Two householders are likewise returned in the hearth tax of 1664 and 1670. One of these by its connections with members of the St. John family was certainly the manor house. The other can be identified with the isolated farm of Brynhill Fach situated on the northern perimeter of the parish, and which probably originated as a 16th century foundation associate with enclosure of wasteland. The two farms are depicted on a Kemys-Tynte Estate Map of 1767, as Highlight containing 339 acres and Brynhill 49 acres. The manor house by this date had been demolished and replaced by a new farm house. No trace of the village is shown, except an 'old chapel' surrounded by three closes called the 'chapel fields', total area 16a. 3r. 35p, which was probably the former glebeland. Both farms are assessed in the Land Tax of 1806. In 1828 the farms of Highlight and Brynhill fach were rented out respectively at 180 pounds and 10 pounds annually. The population of these farms remained fairly consisten throughout the 19th century, not exceeding 24 persons. The unusual status of Highlight as an extra parochial place remained a curiosity, which attracted the attention of a local journalist in 1889, who penned the following account:- "Here's an interesting little parish. The parish of Highlight, between Barry and Wenvoe, has but two families within its borders, and three ratepayers (one of them -Colonel Knight- being non- resident). There are only four assessments on the rate book, and the present overseers are the two resident ratepayers, and one of them a female. Instead of purchasing a new rate book at the last assessment, one of the overseers affixed a sheet of paper in the old one for the purpose of the new rate, which answered very well. The rate book, which is a small one, has been in sue for over twenty-one years. The rateable value of the parish is a little over 200 pounds." The parish retained its independent status until 1898 when under the provisions of the local Government Act, is was annexed for civil purposes to the parish of Wenvoe. The rural aspect of highlight changed from the 1970's when much of the area was swallowed up by a huge housing estate which formed the northern expansion of the modern town of Barry. Fortunately, most of the village site, including the church, was preserved from development by being incorporated in an extension of the nearby Brynhill Golf Course.

TOPOGRAPHY

The site of Highlight medieval village lies on the northern outskirts of Barry town, on a low ridge of land overlooking the Waycock valley, between 46m and 68m above sea level, and bounded on the north by a small stream. The ridge carries an ancient and deeply worn hollow trackway which runs along its brow. At the eastern end of the ridge where the sloping ground broadens into a sheltered hollow there is a moated homestead representing the original site of the manor. At the north-western end of the ridge the ground slopes steeply to the river Waycock. Here in a prominent position on the brow of the hill, are situated the foundations of the parish church. The village itself lay between the manor site and church, following the line of the trackway. Few surface traces houses and crofts are visible, the earthworks having been almost completely destroyed by ploughing. The subsoil is impeded lias clay which retains waterlogged conditions during prolonged wet weather. Until recent housing development the only building standing in the vicinity of the former village was Highlight farmhouse. 


How the St. John family acquired Highlight in Dinas Powys

 Nicole d'Aubigny was the heiress of Dinas Powys. She was the daughter of William d'Aubigny, who was one of 16 illustrious men and counselors to King John, who were listed in the preamble to the Magna Carta. She married Roger de Somery, of Dudley Castle and had several children. Their daughter Margaret de Somery married Ralph Basset and their son, Thomas Basset married Anne Cardiff. Their son Elias Basset married one of the co-heiresses of Weobley Castle, Margaret de la Bere and her sister, Elizabeth, the other co-heiress married John St. John, of East Luccombe. Their son John Basset (first cousin to John St. John, of East Luccombe) married Joan ferch Thomas ap Madog and their son Hugh Basset married Lucy ferch Gruffudd and they had a daughter named Lucy Bassett who married the son of John St. John, of East Luccombe and Elizabeth de la Bere, Sir John St. John, Knight as his second wife and they had Alexander St. John, of Highlight who was listed as holding Highlight in 1429. Alexander's father in 1415 inherited 3/4 Fees of Penmark (Place) and the Barony of West Barry following the death of Alice (Blount) Sturry.

Highlight Inheritance

Sir Alexander St. John, Knight of Highlight is the 5 times great-grandson of Nicole d'Aubigny, of Dinas Powys and Roger de Somery


Note: Historians have conflated this family with the de Port-St. John of Fonmon. These are two distinct paternal lineages.


2014 Orson St. John visits Highlight

Orson St. John and his friend flew from Vermont to England to visit his daughter, Meg (St. John) Gally and her family living in England. They traveled to Wales as part of their trip and visited Glamorgan, Wales and the St. John properties there.  These images were emailed to me courtesy of Meg (St. John) Gally to be used to share with my research. Orson used to send me Vermont Maple Syrup from his family farm that me and my kids loved. Orson had heart surgery in 2021 and died  a few days later. He was one of my regular pen-pals from my earliest days researching St. Johns. He was so glad he found this website because he wanted to pass on the research he and his father completed during their lifetimes. In addition to pictures, Orson mailed me books and other memorabilia he collected on his trip. I was truly blessed to know this man. I miss communicating with him via email and regular mail. His father created the name appendix to Orline (St. John) Alexander's 1907 book, The St. John Genealogy.

  

  

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

  

  

  

  

 

  

  

  

  

  

  

  

  

  

  

  

  

  

  

  

  

  

  

  

  

  

  

  

  

  

  

  

  

  

  

  

  

  

  

  


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